Stephen's Occasional Journal

Reflections on Canada

2008-07-15T22:00:26Z

A little time has now passed since I returned from Canada and, as promised, some reflections on my trip.

Canada

Canada is simply an amazing country, as I suspect you'll have gathered from previous entries. I think I was most struck by the scale of everything, from the unimaginable vastness of the country, and how spread out everything is, to the heights of the mountains all around. Ah, the mountains. From the first time I drove over from Calgary towards Banff, and could see the mountains appearing on the horizon, I was almost constantly surrounded by them: in all the national parks, on the roads between them, even on the long drive south to Waterton Lakes there was normally a line of mountains snaking along in the distance. One can almost get too accustomed to sights like this, and on occasion it would strike me - there aren't normally mountains all around me!

So Canada certainly has impressive scale, but it also has beauty. This ranges from the obvious - the breathtakingly gorgeous turquoise of the lakes, the forested mountains receding into the hazy distance - to the far more subtle - landscapes covered in tiny, brilliantly coloured wild flowers. Lakes that seem designed to be set sparkling by the bright sun, surrounded by dazzling, pure white snow. The icy wonderment of the glaciers, covered by pale sky-blue streams of water. Waterfalls thundering down from the sky, their base obscured by shimmering clouds of spray. Golden sunset over the water, and a glittering light-show of stars at night.

Accommodation

In keeping with the YHA hostels I've been to in other countries, those in Canada are of the same high standard. I actually only stayed in four: two for only one night each (Calgary and Banff), Maligne Canyon for three days, and Lake Louise for seven days. The three town hostels were all well equipped and comfortable, but inevitably you get less of a feeling of community when there are large numbers of people there. However, you do get to know the people in your dorm. When I had four days in a row at Lake Louise it was quite interesting seeing the progression of people through the dorm: normally it's me that's only staying one night in a place and just passing through, but this time I was the one who remained while everybody else changed. I was able to pass on, and receive, a number of tips about places to visit, finding that, as normal at hostels, we often had similar outlooks. Quite a range of ages at the hostels - a mixture of New Zealand (where most people were young) and England (where most were older).

By far the most interesting hostel, though, was Maligne Canyon, the wilderness hostel out in the forest. Just four little huts, each with six beds - and it was basically full for the time I was there. I'd had a few concerns when booking this hostel, and indeed it was primitive. But far from being a problem this just added to its character. To be fair, I think if I hadn't been able to use the showers in the town hostel my opinion might have been different, and eating in a cafe in town is perhaps hardly roughing it :) But the atmosphere there was just lovely; because there was no television or other distractions there, people would just congregate, either in the kitchen, or outside at the benches. And we would talk, and watch the sun going down. Hear the wind blowing in the trees above, and the river rushing past beside. Draw imperceptibly closer to the fire for protection against the gathering darkness all around. And fend off determined mosquitoes, and compare our bites! And then to wake up there in the morning, with the lovely soft early light glimmering through the trees, and smell the cold freshness in the air. And perhaps to linger awhile, standing in that clearing in the trees, for a few moments of calm and reflection, before heading off to start the busy-ness and excitement of the day.

My two nights camping were also fun - particularly as this was the first time I'd been camping. It probably helped that I was really tired both evenings, so getting to sleep on the hard ground wasn't a problem! And if my tent can survive three thunderstorms and very strong winds, hopefully it can cope with most things!

Driving

This was perhaps the aspect of the trip that I'd been most concerned about in advance (and which I know certain people continued to worry about!). Once I'd got the car at the airport, I sat in it for a few minutes to sort out my maps and route and so on. And then for a few moments considering what I was about to do, thinking "I actually have to drive this thing now!" But after edging carefully around the multi-storey car park that it was in, I emerged onto the streets around the airport, and on into Calgary down the highway, and never looked back! Except in the mirror :) I was really amazed by how easy it was to adjust to driving on the other side. The only thing that was hard was the usual issue of driving round the downtown of a busy city with woeful signs. I think it would certainly have been harder if I'd been in a right-hand drive car, or in a manual transmission. But the automatic made everything far easier :)

So after the initial worries I actually enjoyed the driving - because when you're on a long drive through a national park, the scenery is significantly more interesting than driving around the M25! Yes, you can't fully appreciate it because you've having to concentrate on the road, but you can sneak a number of glances - and there were always lots of laybies in the national parks where you could pull over to have a proper look. Although there were a number of times when I was just itching to take a photo and there was absolutely nowhere to stop!

It was funny how quickly the north American attitude to driving everywhere took hold - such as when I found myself driving down to the shop in Lake Louise, a three minute walk from the hostel. But everything is so designed for cars, that it does just come naturally. And I certainly couldn't have had the holiday I did without my own car. There were some buses, but the freedom to go places when you want would have vanished completely ("where" would have been less of a problem, although I probably couldn't have got everywhere). A particular example would be the Icefields Parkway, which did have buses/coaches down it. But if they did stop at scenic points, it would have been to their schedule, making a walk or a long sit at any point impossible. And I couldn't be doing with that!

Books

I Was pleased with my choice of reading material, reading all seven Narnia books over the trip (finishing The Last Battle in the departure lounge, which was perhaps not the most auspicious of locations). It's interesting to re-read them as an adult, and as a collection too. Certainly I found that the individual stories of each book became less important, and the overall themes stood out far more clearly, with the Christian message standing out like a silver thread linking everything together, woven through the tapestries of all the separate events. And so even The Horse and His Boy, perhaps often regarded as a weak member of the set, had its part to play, with a particularly moving description of our walk of faith. And the mirrored echoes of creation in the first and last books - just lovely.

I don't think I managed to get any Narnia quotes into the blog posts, as perhaps C.S. Lewis is more given to imagery and simpler descriptions than the quotable wordsmithery of Tolkien (who did feature a few times). But the subject matter was certainly eminently suitable for the holiday, as I went on my own journey through the wonders of creation.

Weather

I was exceptionally lucky with the weather, as I was really perhaps a little early in the year to have justifiably hoped for dependable summer conditions. But for about half the time it was sunny and over 30C - almost too hot! I certainly got through a lot of sun-cream, having to keep on applying it during the day, as I could feel myself burning. But it was so reassuring to have so many days when you didn't have to worry about the weather, and you could just go outside and do whatever you had planned.

The first few days were a little greyer, but without any rain. It did get a little wetter in the last few days, with a thunderstorm when I was at Emerald Lake, which I managed to miss by being in the car. And then several thunderstorms when I was at Waterton Lakes, one of which I was caught out in. Having spent most of my second day at Yoho looking at the sky, I think I was getting quite good at predicting what was coming, and I wasn't that surprised when it rained at Waterton, as it had looked dubious all morning. But I had waterproofs, so what was the fuss? - I dried out! I certainly wasn't going to let the weather affect my plans on my last day :)

Wildlife

Well, I wasn't eaten by a bear. Just by mosquitoes - somewhat less glamorous :) I would have liked to have seen a bear from the safety of my car, but it was not to be. However, I did see: a moose, two elk, lots of deer (just wandering around the campsite), a porcupine, two marmots, and uncountable numbers of those little ground squirrels! I was particularly pleased to see the moose, coming as it did at the end of my last day - so fitting that a sight of such an iconic Canadian creature should bring my trip to a close. After entertaining the crowds simply by the majesty of his presence, he turned and splashed off through the lake, bidding us a silent goodbye, and I too walked away, to begin the long journey back to my home.

Comparisons

A few comparisons of Canada with other places I've visited spring to mind. The first would be the Lake District, and in a sense the area that I saw was very similar - mountains, walks, high-up lakes in the middle of mountains. Clearly everything in Canada was on a bigger scale, and also higher up, leading to the snow, for example. But quite a similar character.

The other comparison would be with New Zealand. Now, I should stress that I obviously only saw a fraction of Canada, and clearly it has far more to offer in terms of different environments, notably the coast. But I'm going to go ahead with the comparison, however unfair it may be. Now, when I was travelling around New Zealand, there was a phrase that kept popping into my head, which I'm not sure ever got mentioned at the time: "That's uncommonly beautiful!". Because everything was. And in that phrase perhaps lies the root of the difference I felt: Canada was most definitely awe-some and a stunning example of nature. But I think perhaps the huge-ness that inspired that awe also made it somewhat harder to relate to the place. While in New Zealand, I felt as though I had come Home. As well as the grandeur and extreme beauty of the landscape, this was somewhere I could feel at one with nature, and for a few precious moments at the most special places, feel perfectly happy.

I think there were other factors too. To me, Canada felt very similar in terms of society and culture to the US (in my very limited experience). Just in little things like the layout of cities, styles of shops and motels, restaurants (with compulsory tipping). And while everybody that I met was polite and helpful, there wasn't quite that natural, genuine enthusiasm that I'd found in New Zealand.

All of which is being a bit harsh on Canada, which is still an amazing place that I thoroughly enjoyed visiting. It's just no New Zealand :)

Stats

Distance travelled: 3000km, roughly 2000 miles
National parks visited: 4
Hostels visited: 4
Photos taken: 1574. Which makes the winner of the photo competition, erm, me, as I guessed 1500 :) But I think I should disqualify myself, so the next closest was David S!

Favourites

Best hostel: Maligne Canyon, for all the reasons above.

Best walk: Sulphur Skyline - it was tough, but the views from the top, of mountains as far as the eye could see, were worth every effort expended in getting there.

Best view not captured in a photo: The line of mountains along the horizon on the drive from Calgary to Banff. Firstly there was no place to stop, but even if there had been, they would have looked tiny in a photo. Their sense of intrigue and invitation would have been lost.

Best national park: A hard choice, but I think it has to be Yoho, for the reason that it struck me as a far more mysterious place than the other parks. Partly this was because I had less time to explore it, but also because its sights are more hidden away. They're not that far apart, as the crow flies, as it's a small park, but they lie at the end of different twisting roads, and so journeying to them felt more like a process of discovery. There's a great deal compressed into a small space, with a number of mountains close together. As you wind between them you feel - what mystery could be round the next corner...

Best place: Bow Lake. A simple, magical spot, lacking the crowds of tourists, but having everything that more famous lakes such as Lake Louise have. I could have sat and watched the sparkle on the deep turquoise water for hours (which is not far from the mark!).

Conclusions

And so let me close with two quotes, which sum up the holiday far better than I could. From a Parks Canada sign by Twin Falls in Yoho: "We mount into precipitous forests and into a great quiet, as if the quiet of cathedrals had somehow been brought into the open air."

And from Lake Louise hostel: "Happiness is not a destination, but a manner of travelling".

Day 15 - Departure

2008-07-08T13:03:45Z

Last night was my last night here, and the second night in the tent. During the evening the wind had been picking up, until it was gusting very hard at times. The tent was well pegged down by now, but it still made quite a racket each time the wind did blow. Somehow I managed to sleep through it though! I did wake up at about 3am, and decided to poke my head out to make sure everything was still firmly attached. It was. I looked up, and, oh, the stars! Here in the middle of a national park, with hardly any street lights for miles around, they were an amazing sight, with the starry clouds of the Milky Way stretching right across the sky, and brilliant specks of light everywhere.

I got up early in the morning, as I had a number of things to do before setting off - packing up the tent, getting everything into the correct bags for the flight, having breakfast. I managed to leave by about 9.30, and set off for the fairly long drive north to Calgary. I'd got a route printed out from Google Maps, that cut across country using a number of secondary highways (a bit like B roads, I suppose). Fortunately it was well signed as well, and I had no problems finding my way.

I went straight through to Calgary, stopping off just before the airport to fill up with gas (that being one of the conditions of the rental). I hadn't known where exactly the car needed to be dropped off, but I just followed signs to the airport, and once there found very good signs all the way through showing where the various rental companies had their drop off zones. For Hertz you just left the car in a long line-up, and then took the keys back upstairs at their counter. No extra charges as I hadn't damaged the car at all!

This left me at the airport four hours before my flight, and check-in hadn't even opened! Fortunately it did quite soon, so I was able to get rid of my heavy bags. Security was much simpler than at Gatwick, just a bag-scan and archway to walk through, none of this taking off shoes nonsense. I had a long time then to wait at the gate, finishing off The Last Battle in the process - all seven Narnia books read! We started boarding at 4.40 (for a listed departure time of 5.35), and we must have been in the air by 5.35, if not slightly before.

The flight was quite a lot fuller than coming out, maybe 3/4 full (as opposed to about 1/4), but I still had two seats to myself. We were served a meal soon after take-off, and a breakfast panini just before landing. During the flight, when we were flying through darkness all the lights were turned off and I tried to get a little sleep. Not particularly successfully, as I wasn't really tired, but I dozed a bit. They also showed two films; I watched the first, 27 Dresses, but not the second - The Other Boleyn Girl - as that was a film I actually wanted to see, and didn't really want to watch it on a tiny far-off screen with sound that's rather hard to hear over the engine noise.

We landed, early, at about 9.10, although it was a nasty landing - lots of dropping through turbulence, and then a bumpy touchdown. Looking around, one could see a number of people surreptitiously hanging onto their seat arms!

A long queue at passport control, and then a long wait for baggage - must have been 15 mins even after getting through security, and then bags came out only in dribs and drabs. Got mine at last, and headed off to catch a train. To Victoria, then tube to King's Cross, where a Cambridge train was about to leave. At Cambridge I couldn't face any more public transport, and got a taxi home, getting in about 1pm.

And from there pretty much straight to bed, for an afternoon nap, and fell asleep just about instantly. I set the alarm for 6pm, by which point I felt quite awake again. Had an evening unpacking, cooking myself dinner, and watching the Wimbledon Men's Final (rather unexpectedly!). And then going to bed at the normal time. And on Monday (and today) I felt fine - have I managed to beat the jet-lag?!

Reflections on the trip coming 'soon'.

Day 14 - Waterton Lakes

2008-07-05T01:55:08Z

Well, I've had a lovely lasty proper day, despite everything the weather has thrown at me - and it has used most of its arsenal too!

I slept surprusingly well in my tent - it was nice to have a room to myself for a chanfge! It was quite cold when I woke up at 5am, but snuggling back into the sleeping bag did trhe trick. And having showers on site is more civilisation than we had at Maligne Canyon hostel!

Some very black clouds in teh sky as I went into town (about a 2 minute walk!) for some breakast, at the same cafe (Zum's) as last night. And jusr after I'd got in, it hailed. That had stopped by the time I'd eaten so, after buying some lunch, I walked back to the campsire, as my walk started from there.

The walk was a climb to Bertha Lake, past Bertha Falls. An 11km round trip, with a 460m elevation gain (quite signivifcant). We clikbed gently to the falls, and then things got a little more serious, witha long set of switchbacks - up hill nearly all the way, but quite gradual.

Bertha Lake is a lovelty little apline lake, and there was still snow on the shore at the bottom of the surrounding moutnains. I'm not sure how, as the walk up had been through very lush plants, feeling almost tropical at times with th sun out. We are, of course, fuerther south here than up at Banff.

I had a little sit tyhere, then started back down again. A few rumbles of thunder in the distance alerted me to get my waterproofs on, and sure enough the rain came soon - and hard. The storm passed very close - strikes within half a mile, one of which hit the hill opposite me in a giant fork.

By the time I got back to the campsite (whjich was where I was going anyway) it was sunny again. My trousers are some clever material, so after a short time in the sun (eating my lunch) I was completelty dry again. So that didn't affect my plans at all.

My other plan for the day was to drive along one of the roads in the NP, the Akamina Parkway, which leads 15km to Cameron Lake. Which I did, and went on a lakeshore walk there. MOre beautiful snowy mountains at the far end of the lake. Quite busy with people on canoes and pedaloes.

Just as I got back to the wstart of the walk - more thunder and more heavy rain, by which time I was safely in a shelter there (some sort of exhibition buildilg about the NP).

That storm only lasted anout 15 mins, not coming as close, and when that was done I went on a very short walk (one km round trip) to Akamina Lake.

Going back to Cameron Lake, it struck me that this was the last thing I would See in Canada. But no! As I was quietely sitting by the lake, word spready around that there was a (female) moose just around the corner. Soon, a fairly sizeable crowd was watching it from a safe distance and taking lots of photos (me included!). It didn't seem at all perturbed by us, calmly having a drink, munching some grass and wandering around a bit in a marshy/lake area just off the car park. An extremelt fine creature, and a very fitting way to end this last day here.

So yes, a lovely day today, with lakes, waterfalls, and moose!

Backj to the campsite, to make sure my tent hadn't blown away. It was in fact trying quite hard to do so, so I pegged it down tighter. Completly dry inside - this has been a good test of it!

Dinner at Zum's - pork schnitzel with mushroom gravy, fries, vegetable and bread roll. Tasty. I'll be using the internet there in a moment (now!) too.

TOmorrow, more driving, as I go back north to Calgary. Shouldn't take more than three hours according to Google Maps, but I shall allow rather a lot more, especially as the Calgary Stampede is happening this week!

Narnia books read: 6.

I was going to say in an earlier post, but it was one of the 3 that got typed very fast. David: you would be advised to take a torch with you when you go hostelling. Not really in case of powercuts, but it can be handy if you're trying to find something in your bag when the main room lights are off because people are sleeping and you don't want to disturb them too much.

Another little competition: how many photos do you think I've taken over the course of this trip? THis is made more fun because I don't know either (as I transfer them off the camera's flash card onto my hard disk backup device at the end of each day, and this can't tell you how many it has on it). I've made my guess, which I'll keep secret of course!

Finally, just to day I sahll post some reflections on my trip sometime after I get back to the UK, when I can think (and type) rather more clearly than when a clock is ticking down money in the corner of the screen. Suffice it to say for now that I've had a simply wonderful time, and seen some amazingly beautiful places. To borrow a word once more from the Cree tribe, who lived in this area: Yoho!

Day 13 - Drive to Waterton Lakes

2008-07-04T02:02:40Z

If the last blog post got a little rushed and unreadable towards the end, it was because the 30mins vuocher I had was running out (at an internet terminal in the post office in Lake Loiuse), and I'd had three entries to type with it. Hope it made sense anyway!

Yesterday evening I watchewd some Wimbledon for the first time this year. Federer against Ancic. With advert breaks at most changes of ends! (Also not live, clearly.)

In my dorm were the same German couple, and also a couple who I'd met at the Maligne Canyon hostel. What are trhe odds that we should get the same room?!

Very hot during the nught, but I must have been tired as I fell asleep very quickly,. What's the weather been like in the UK/ (Today has been high 20s, low 30s snuny day)

Right, onto today. A final breakfast at the hostel (the waitresses are ghetting used to seeing me down there, and are getting very talktative!) and then it was off. Well, via the bakery and pertrol, oops, gas station.

Today, then, was a dirving day, as I wangted to get to Waterton Lakes NP. If you loko at a map youl'l see this is a fair way from Lake Louise! The most direct route woul dhave been to go back via Banff, almost all the way basck to Calgary and then south. Btu where would be the fun in retracing my steps! Instaed I was giong to go on a loop through British Columbia.

So, first of all through Yoho NP, th way I've gone for the last two mornings, but on past the park to a town called Golden. From ethre, south through pklaces like Radium Hot Springs, Invermere, Cranbrook; then east throyugh Fernie, and finally suoth again through Pincher's Creek before getting to Waterton Village, in teh NP. The drive took basically all day, leaving sometime after 10, and getting here a bit after 5. This did unclude a number of stops for bits of lunch etc.

SOme lovelty scenery to drive through althjough quite diferernty frmo the Rockies area. Lots of hills and rivers abd valleys. Quite English-pastoral in style. Around Pincher's Creek everything became quite flat, and one could see the lineo f the Rockies in the distance. THey grew gradually close, until aupon arrival at Waterton they were all around.

My first stop was the visitor centre, to get a map and check on rtail conditions. And then onto my accommodatrion.

Now, some of you may recall me saying "Oh, I can't go to Waterton, the hostel is fully booked, I'll have to go to somehwere different." Well, I reconsidered, and came up with an alternative solution that still lets me come to Waterton (which I really wanted to do, to get a contrast to the bits of the Rockies further north in Banff).

And the alternative? Camping! I'd reserved a spot at the Waterton town campsite for two nights. I drove in and checked in, and parked in the designated spot. I then pitched my tent in the grassy space adjacent to this. This woruld be my new tent which I carefully collected from home in time, and had brought out as mty second allowed piece of checked-in baggage.

This was the first time I'd piteched this tent other than the practice ion the garden, but all went smoothly! I've got my sleeping bag, whiah miraculously fitted into my big bagpack along with everythjig else.

This will be my first time camping, so it should be a fun expereience :) There are showers and toilets and running water and everything on site, so it's not like being outin the wilderness!

I found a ncie cafe to have dinner at, and it also has internet access, so I'm back tehre now to type this. I hadn't noticed anywhere else in town with internet, so it was a bit of luck choosing this cafe, as I hadn't noticed the internet sign when walking past!

Tomorrow is my only day to explore Waterton NP, so I shall be going on a nice long walk. And then on Satrudaty I shall have to drive back to Calgary and fly home :(

Dist travelled: about 2600km (long way today!).

Day 12 - Yoho

2008-07-02T23:20:59Z

"Yoho" - a Cree word that's an expression of wonderment, and suyms up this place perfgectly.

Thoday was myt last day to see Yoho NP, and I had a nice lonng walk planned, so I was off early. By 9.45 I'd had a cooked breakjfast, goit supplies for lunch from the LL baklery, drivern to the information ceentre for Yoho and driver to the trailhead carpark.

THe forecast was a little dubious - 40% chyance of rain, and chgance of thiunderstomrs. Not letting this deter me, I wasnted to get as muchg done in the morning as possible.

My walk todaty started at at Takakkaw Falls, and was to be downb the Yoho VBalley, past a number of other falls, to Twin Falls. Takakkwa Falls at the swtart was spectcauilar enough, with a gret volume of water pouring down the cliff. This was a 16km (10 miles) total terup, with 300m ascent. WIth various siude trips, more like 17km.

And this trail realy had everything - mountains all around, a river, a lake, fuve watergalls, and even a tea=room at the end (closed).

It was cloudy when I set ofgf, but quite warm, and no sign of rain. No sign og anyt other people for that matter.

The trail started by going across a flat area, then passed into trees, and winded abouyt and up (and down - I dislike downvill bits on the way out!) and crossed the river severla times on wide brighes (a fast, wide river).

At the halway point we came to Laughing Falls, which you cuoujld view from very ckise uf tyiy didn't mind a bit of spray!

A few bits of sunshine by now., On we climbed, for the steepesyt section of the toue, mostly sticking cvlose to the river. ANd then up some final switchbacks.

At this point, I head a loud rumblking sound. THunder? A jet enegine? An avalanche? Then with a grin I reaslied it was my destination waterfall, and it made that muchg noise, it must be worth serinbg. And it was! Two streams of water falling right off the top of the moubntauin cliff, and falling way, waty down, and thrundering into the river valley velow. Lots of good viewpoints, uincluding some with spray again.

I stopped here for lunch, and it seemed to vbe gteting sunnier. After a while there ity was time for ytjhe return trip, during whicvh it got greyer again.

I took a side trip to Duchesney Lake, which was a nice little spot, and to two more watrerfalls - Poiunt Lake FGalls and ANgels Steps Falls (this was a bviewpoint to falls on the other side of the valkley)

By now it was properly hot and sunny, and still is as I write this beside the Takakkaw Falls. A few more people here now, but still pretty quiwt. I guess Yohjo is less crowded than Banff and Jasper. IT was a different chartacet, which I canb't quite put a finger on. If anything it's ab it smaller, with things closer together, buyt still with moutanins soaring intghe to ythje sky. Feels a bit more homely!

The total trip time was 6 hours, with diveriosns and sopts. A good day's walk!

Well that fdorecasrt was quiter wrong - furtenaly!

Posting this from the post office in town.

Tomorrow I'm off to Waterton Lakes NP, myt lasty destination. May not be internet tehre.

Narnia books read: 5
Dist: 2050km

Day 11 - Yoho

2008-07-02T23:12:51Z

I woke up in the morning to discover that the power was still not back. APparently there had been a landslide. Strangely tehre was hot water, so I had a shower by torch light,.

Obvviosuly the cafe was not open,m and enither were the shops in the village. SO I had one of my backyup breakfast cereal bars, anbd headede straiught off for the day - to somwhere with power and shop[s!

M<y destination was Yoho NP only 25km from LL. I stoipped at the visitor centre to get a travel map, and got some food from a beighbouriunbg shop. No power problems there. And so a little drive from tehre to Emerald Lake. I was to so two walks tehre - a 5km walk around the lake and, heading off from thius, a climb yo EMerald Basin (9km return, 300m ascent). Emeral Lake was indeed a lovely emerald colour - differnet from the turquoise of the other lkakes. It also had some gorgeous reflections of the surtroudning trees and mouihntains. Tghe lake walk was flat and simple, but the climb to EMerald Basin started pretty steep;y up through the trees, before flattetning out. TYhe Basin was at the end of a valley, slethered on all sides but the south by high moutnains - and so was hot and hu id and full of lush vegeration, qyuite unlike the otyer places I've been. Aklmost having to push through it at times! UIt gad been a hot suny daty at the lake, and was hotter up ghere The traiul ended at a 'natural amphitheatre of hanging glaciers and avalanche paths', which was most spectacular. I sat up there for a bit, and headed backj to the lake (being asked by 3 or 4 people how mucvh further/steeper it was). I had lunch by the lakeshoer and continued rtound back to the start. Just as I got back a few spots of rain started to fall. Now in the forecart there had been wanrings of thunderstoirms, so I headed for the car. SUre enbough the rain soon started in earnest, and there was lightning, at times within half a mile. Having no reason to leace, I devidfed to ssee if I could wait it out, and sati in thec ar reading a history of Canada from the ROugh Guide. THis seemed appropratie, it vbeinfg Canada Dat today! I found out how little i knew about their history. By the time it got to 4.30, wiuth no lte-up, I decided to head home, as any tracks through forest would be so danmp from drips even if it did stop. Very nasty driving, with spray all around. As we climbed over the moutanis back into Banff, lo and belohold the rain stoppedf. I asled at the hjostel and they;d had no tthunderstorm ghere - although it is still overcast. By the way, this was my first truip out of Alberta (motto: Wild ROse Country) into British Columbbia (motto: Beautiful British Columbia). So, I manehged to get my main walk down today, and hadf about 4.5-5 hours walking., I'm glad I was so near the car when the raibn came!. WHen I got back to the hostel the power was backj. Let's hope it stays that way! The cafe was open as normal, with a full menu, and was veyr vbusy. Just two others in my dorm tonight, a German couple. Tomrroiw: more Yoho. Narnbia books erad: 4

Day 10 - The Icefields Parkway

2008-07-02T23:04:37Z

YEstreday was my lasyt nmight at the wilderness hostel, and it was somehwat quieter tehre. I continued talking to the two Brirts there - Rob hgad done the same walk as me that day - Sulphurt Skyline. Theyve been travelling right actoss from the ast coast, and are 4 weeks into their holiday.

The hostel looks lovely at night, with juyst a few lighted buildings standing along among the trees, with the river rushing past beside.

I gfot a good night's sleep, and lingered a little in the motrninhg before sertting off, as everything was lit by a lovely morning light, and I was loathre to leave the place.

Onwards I went though, bvia the town hostel and a bakery in town, as my goal for the day was toi drive back down the Icefields Parkway to get to LL.

Not a non-satop trip of courfse, as I had a walk planned to Wilcox Pass, desecroibed by ytjhe Rough Guide as 'one of the best walks in tthe nbational patk, let alone the parkway'. This was anm 8km, 335m ascent walk up and along the pass which was used by native people to get through the mounbtains.

The trail started with a steep climb through trees (don't they all?!) but, as we had started hjigher ujp, we hit the treeline sooner, and it was less steepo after that.

The actuial destination, the highest pooint on the pass, was somehwat arbitrary, but it made a good point to stop for lunch! Arbitrary because the views from the whole area around the top of the pass were superb, overlooking 2 glaciers, uincluing the Athabasca whiH I'd walked on - interesting to see ifr fomr a somehwhat differenty abgle!

The area of the pass was delightful apline meadows, with wild flowers, poolls and streams. And some snow still clinging on, bnut fortunately not on the path.

THe whole walk talk about 2.25 hours, plus half an hjour for lunch, making it a good llength activity for the day.

And so back to the drivcing south down the patrkway. I had one more stop along teh way, finding m,yself drawn inexorably back to my favouirite Bow Lake, where I sat and ate the "Bear's Paw" bun I'd got from the Bear's Paw Baklery that morning - cinnamon flavoured with raisins.

I could see a thuinderstorm in the distance (even when I was on the first walk) which I was keeping an etye on, but I mnaneged to miss it. WHen I got back to LL thougf everything was very wet. THe sun is back out now - as it has been fior me all day - another scorcher.

I had dinbner in the hostel cafe, arriving just before it got vbery busy. NOt sure who wiul be in my room tonight. I was the first to arrive, and when I was in there a family arrived, looked rather surprised to see me, hgad a conversation in Frencg, and left again. I saw them later having an argument at REception. IT appears theyu thought they were getting a praivate room. No sign of them when I went back after dinner!

I;m basing myself at LL fgor the nexty few days as I explore Yoho NP, only 20km west of here down the Hwy. I'd been going to stay at Yoho hostel, but it hadn't oped yet, as its access route had been blocked until recently by snow. BNut no matter, thge facilities are better here anyway! SHould be a little less travelling (by car) for tfhe next few days, whjich will save money on gas!

**
Well, there was a bit of excitment later that evening. I was sitting outside reading my book, and popped inside to refill mny water bottle. It seemed a little dark inside, and it turned out there was a power cut, affecting the whole of LL! Some emergency lighting on, and the electronic door locks seemd to be working sitll. ANyway, I went back outside, but, as it got lataer, there was still no power.

THe staff were now handing out green chemnical glow-sticks as, for example, there was no emergency lighting on my dorm's corridot (and no windows). I used tyhis to get to my rooms, and once tehre I could collect myt windup torcg - which I'd brought for the wilderness hjostel, nbot the one in town!

Just before I went to bed even the emergency lights fgailed, and rtgehre were little glowsticks on staircases etyc!

I was joined by two others in my room, a father and daughter from Wales, who were glad to borrow my torch to use the ensuite bathroom!

Dist travlled: 1890 km.

Day 9 - Jasper National Park

2008-06-30T01:54:23Z

"I stand in awe"

Having spent a few days using Jasper as a base for doing nearby things, it was time to have a day actually exploring Jasper National Park. There's no obvious centre as there is (sort of) at Lake Louise in Banff, with walks starting from locations quite a long way apart.

Going back to last nigth thourgh, and there were more Brits in the hostel again, and we stuck together in solidarity againsty the rather large Chinese family that was there. No bonfire, but we still sat outside watching it get dark. And I went into the town hostel again for a showe (the other Brits were much apprecative of me teloling them you couuld do this!)

And so onto my main walk for the day, which will probably also be my most difficult walk of the holiday. The Rough Guide lists best walks in Jasper in categories of easy, moderatae and stenuous, and this fell in the last category :) It was "Sulphur Skyline". Only 10km return, so not that hard, right? Wrong, as you gain 700m of elevation over that quite short distance.

The trail starts at the Miette Hot Springs complex 60km outside Jasper town. The car park was full of people going to the springs, not so many for the walk! Although I did pass quite a lot of people on the trail, as it was indeed popular.

The trails has only become un-snow-bound in the last week, but now it's perfect conditions. And today was a great day again - blue sky all day and very hot (over 30). I've been applying sun cream all day!

The trail starts by climbing up the mountainside through sparse-ish trees (so good views) to Shuey Pass. From there are a series of switchbacks, which take you to the edge of the treeline. After that one final push up above the trees on a stony path, and to the summit of the mountain! This is my fisrt (and probably only) summit here, and it was at an elevation of 2050m, right up around the surrounding peaks. And tehre were mountains on all sides, some close by, some lining the valley that lead off in two directions, with hazy mountains as far as the eye could see.

To borrow a word from the ROugh Guide, the views were "superlative". I might also suggest "awesome" in its proper sense.

Very windy at the top, bur there were some rocksto provide some shelter, and I had my lunch out there, protetcing it from the little Canadian squirrels which were trying (quite hard!) to steal it. I sat there for "about a half hour" just enjoying teh view.

The climb up had taken just under 2 hours, and the path was up all the time - almost no flat sections at all. Well worth it though, as everybody I spoke to at the top agreed. Certainly the best climb I've been on.

Coming down only took about an hour and a quarter, but still had great views.

I had time for something short in the afternoon, so I drove back to Jasper, up the road to the hostel, but continuing on to the end - Maligne Lake, 47km out of town. I just went on a short lakeshore trail on the NE shore of teh lake. Lots of boats out on the water - tour boats and rented canoes. A very picturesque spot.

And then back to town for dinner (breaded veal!) and to use the internet.

This was my last day in Jasper - I'm heading back to Lake Louise tomorrow to explore Yoho National Park over the next few days.

Having seen both, I can't see much difference between Banff and Jasper NPs - they're both amaing. I syppose it's all the same set of mountains, just partitioned into differnet names. Jasper is perhaps a little less developed and more inaccessible, which makes it rather more fun to explore, and not quite as touristy as Banff - I suppose tehre's no one main sight for tourists to get dropped off at in their coaches :)

Distance travelled so far: 1650km, and so now over 1000 miles.

May or may not be an entry tomorrow - depends if Lake Louise hostel have fixed their internet yet!

Day 8 - The Athabasca Glacier

2008-06-29T01:50:45Z

My first night in the wilderness hostel went fine. When it started to get dark the hostel 'warden' lit a bonfire in the central area bwrtween the huts, and we all crowded round. We were full that night, with 24 people from a variety of groups. It felt lovely to be out in the middle of nowhere with the fire for us to huddle round to protect us against the dark.

Thuis morning I set off almost as soon as getting up, as I had various things to do. First, to a garage for gas, then to get a sandwich, then onto the town hostel for a shower (this order being far more convenicent driving-wise).

And then back south for about an hour down the Icefields Parkway tp my destination for the day - The Athabasca Glacier, which I was going for an ice walk on.

The tourists can see it from snow-coaches that travel over the ice, and they're allowed to hop out for a few minutes on a nice tame part of glacier.

I, however, was going on a guided walk. We met in a car park very near the glacier and were given our gear (and got to sign waivers as usual) - walking boots, jackets, over-trousers (for the wind) and gloves. DEspite it being a very hot sunny day, it's always colder on the glacier due to the wind. (In facy it was 30C here today, with 32 predicyed tomorrow.)

We were a group of about 25 with one guide - who has been walking on glaciers for 30 years. We set off at 11, up a short clibing path to the foot of the glacier. The very lowest section of the glacier was covered in snow, which our guide kept testing with a pole to make sure there was solid ice below.

Only a few mins on snow, and then we were up onto the ice. We didn't jhave crampons, just normal walking boots, but because it was snuny the ice was crunchy and therefore walking was fine (they use crampons if it's wet). And so we climbed up the glacier pasuing to look at features such as large holes with rushing water inside (where a creek meets the glacier and pokes through). The whole area was crossed with little streams of pale blue melt-water, which looked lovely against the stark white of the ice.

We had a number of stops on teh way up for commentary, and to catch our breath. We got most of the way up the sloping section, and could see the steps the ice falls down above very clearly.

Harldy any stops on the way down, making a 3.5 hour trip, with abnout 3 hours on the ice. MOre like Fox Glacier than Franz Josef, but possibly even flatter, meaning you could see more views, although it didn't have teh excitement of steps in the ice etc. A fun walk.

Had my lunch there and then headed back to Jasper. Not much afternoon left by now, but time to check out Maligne Canyon, just across the road from teh hostel. A short walk around tehre - and indeed it is a very deep canyon with water rushing through it down below.

A quick pop into the hostel to move down to a lower bunk bed before people arrived (I'd been on an upper one last night, but all those who were in my room were only tehre for that one night).

And now into town for dinner (salmon in Hollandaise sauce with rice and actual vegetables). I'm writing the paper version of this in a bit of a park outside the Parks information centre (where I've been checking trails for tomorrow), and now I'm in tje same internet cafe as yesterday.

In case you didn't see, teh asnwer to teh driving quiz was lane positioning - the tendency is to be slightly too far over to the right, caused, I suppose, by sitting on the wrong side of teh car. ANother strange thing is hill starts, which the transmission handles automatically - where's the fun in that! And also odd is not being able to slow down by changing down gears. But I've got used to iut all now :)

Tomorrow: my one day of doing trails in Jasper itself, and a third and final night in this hostel. Back to civilisation after that!

Day 7 - The Icefields Parkway

2008-06-28T02:55:27Z

[And so on to the real today!]

Today I was moving on from Lake Louise (Although I shall be back, to the hostel at least, later on) and heading north to Jasper. The road that links the two places is the Icefields Parkway, 230km of road all of which is in either Banff or Jasper National Park. ANd what a road it is! It takes one right up through the moutains, and tehre are vuiewopints and walks dotten along teh entire route.

One could spend a long time seeing all tehre is to see, buyt as the road takes 4 hours to drive antywat, one has to choose carefully. And so, as usual, I trusted in the advice of the Rough Guide, and it didn't fail me.

My first sopt, then, was at Bow Lake, for a walk around the lake and up to Bow Glacier Falls.

And, oh, the lake was so lovely. A gorgeous deep-blue-turquoise colour, mountains all around, and hardly and people tehre. I'd go as far as to say it was prettier than LL - cerainly helped by not having that monstrosity of a hotel.

The waslk too may have been my best yet, as none of the walk was in forest, so tyou could see Views all the time. First arind the lake shore itself, eright down beside the water. THen up a bit of a climb beside the river (from the falls) thath leads into the lake. THe trail then emerges onto the moraine left by the Bow Glacier - a field of rtocks. Picking one's way across this to the other side left one standing at the foot ofthe falls, way above at the top of the mountain. Spectacular. And with trhe bonus coming back of more views of the lake.

A note on the weather - there hasn't been a cloud in the sky all day, and lovely and hot too. A perfect day.

The walk was a total of 9km, so shorted than some of recent days, abnd nbot much climbing.

I eventually dragged myself away from the lakeshore, and the peacefu lapping waves, and headed back onto the road. The next stop was only a few km later - a 10 min walk to a lookout over Peyto Lake (described as the best view on the parkway). A brief climb through forest, with the view only unfoling in the last few seconds. And what a view! Peyto Lake gleaming far below, and a succession of lakes leading as far as the eye could see between the snowy mountains.

Sadly it seems *other people* knew theis w as a good view, as there were at times 30 or 40 people crammed onto the small lookout point, waiting their turn (or not) to get to the front and take their photos. WHich ftelt a bit like a conveyor belet - in, take photo, out. I lingered, and for one magical momemnt had the place to myself, before another coach party arrived.

As rge afternoon was by now progressinh I had no firther stops along the rest of the route, as I had a lot of road to cover still. I'll be coming back down this way larer, so will be able to do the other highly recommended walk.

And so to Jasper and the hostel. Not the main hostel in town though, as that had been fully booked when I was doing my booking a month ago. Instead to a YHA "Wilderness hostel" up at Maligne Canyon. This gives you a true Rustic Experience. It's just a few huts in trees beside a river, with no running water (there's a large tank though). Therefore no showers, and an outside non-flush toilet. It does have electricity at least. WE're allowed to use the showers at the town hostel. Anyway, it's a lovely setting, and should be a fun experience. I have 3 nightes there.

I drove back into town for dinner (perhaps not quite in the spirit of the Rustic Experience!) and I'm now in an internet cafe typing all these blog posts. ANd my fingers are now rather tired!

Thanks for all the comments and the emails from family. I've been reading them all!

Day 6 - Lake Louise

2008-06-28T02:44:45Z

Another early start today, following breakfast at the hostel. Along down the road that leads to Moraine Lake, but stopping at a trailhead carpark part-way along.

This was the start of today's hike, to the Paradise Valley. Appropriately enough (?) it takes some effoer fo get into Paradise Valley!

The first part of the walk is a climb to Lake Annette - 6km. The walk starts in thick forest but opens up and runs beside the river - Paradise Creek, briudging it several times. Some lovely long views over to the mountains with the river in the foreground. A final short sharp climb u pthe side of a hill and one suddenly arrives at the lake. A lovely secluded spot, with the by-now-familiar gorgeous turquoise colour.

THis was not my stopping point, however, as the trail continued into Paradise Valley itself. Another climb through forest, but after that flat most of the way. ONe emerged from forest ibnto quite different territory. First, a boulder field with stunning views down into teh tree-saturated valley, and u pto the snowy mountains above. Then into open 'meadows' with only a few trees, and lots of lovely little wild flowers dotting the grass. This was the best part of the walk, as tehre were always views up and down (and all around!).

A number of obstacles to overcome, including a few snow patches, two rivers to cross (one with stepping stones, one with logs across that were rather inclined to roll given half a chance) and some muddy sections.

I wasn't planing on going to the end of the valley, as you can no longer loop back as thr treail was closed to protect the bears. So I continued walking until I felt I'd seen the Valley properly, thenms stopped and had my lunch,

THe weather first thing was a bit cold and grey, but walking warmed me up, and mid-morning the sun peaked out. It got grey again after lunch, with a few spots of drizzlem, but tgus dudb;'t really get through thr trees, so fine conditions for walking.

And soall the way back down the path to the trailhead. About an 18km walk (11.5 miles), with a 283m elevation gain - and took me 6 hours.

Normally that might jave been it for the day, but I had an Activity booked - an evening float raft trip on the Bow River. For this we were being met at Banff, so I drove down the Bow Valley Parkway to get there. I had a bit of a walk around Banff town, to say I had. BNot a particularly inspiring experience.

I was met by the rafting company at a hotel just outside of town, at 6.20pm, on an old school bus, where I joined 6 others for the drive to Canmore, their base. There we met about 12 otrgers for a few minutes drive to the start of our trip.

We were given life-jackets and boarded our boats - 2 little dinghies, seating about 10 each. Each boat had 2 guides, ours had Kirsty paddling from the back, and Gary giving us a commentary from the front.

So, this wasn't a white-water trip, but a nice gentle float down the river. They run these in the evening as this is the best time for seeing wildlief - and the light is nice too: and it was - the sun had come back at 6ish, and it was most glorious golden evening, All the colours of the river and banks seemed to be so vibrant.

After we set off, we moved to sit on the edges of the diunghy, in a sort of circle, so we could see out better.

Our guide gave us a continual commentary on the river, the peaks around us, and histroy of the area. We were on the river for about 1.25 hours, just being moved by the current (and steered by the oars!) and sitting back (not too far back though!) and saoking in the view. All very serene (other than one close encounter with a low-hanging tree!).

We pulled into the bank at the end of our truip, and were given cups of hot chocolate! Out bus appeared as if my magic (as we were obviosuly down-river from the start) to take us back to Canmore and Banff.

As it was by now 8.45, as I'd expected, I decided to have dinner in Banff, and where better then tha hostel. A tasty shepherd's pie. Then driving back up to LL - up the Highway 1 for being quicker. During the drive there was a lovely sunset, wuith golden clouds over the mountains.

And now it's quite late, and time for bed. A really enjyoable day today, with some lovely scenery in Paraides Valley (oh, and I saw 2 porcupines too, which are apparently quite rare) and a lovely relaxzing end to the day on the river. No doubt not as exciting as a whitewater trip, buit I bet we got more of a chance to appreciate the scener!

Narnia books finished: 3 (I didn't remember a thing about A Horse and his Boy).
Dist travalled: 850km.

Still no internet here at LL.

Day 5 - Moraine Lake

2008-06-28T02:30:13Z

[Finally a chance to post these old entries, which will use "today" for the day in question.]

Another day in the vicnity of LL today, based around Moraine Lake, a 15km drive south of LL, and therefore slightly less busy.

I arrived early, soon aftert 9.30 and found the place almost deserted. I decided to set straight off on my planned walk, and save the lake itself for latear.

My main walk of the day was to Eiffel Lake, to the west of Moraine Lake. This is a 12km total walk, aith a 370m elevation gain.

The walk starts by climving through trees on a long serires of swtichbacks climbing up the hillside. FInally one breaks out of trees (somewaht out of breath!) and you get a lovely view back over Moraine Lake (which looked far more turquoise from above thanit had from beside it).

The walk continued through far less dense forest, so one couuld see all around - back to Moraine Lake, and on and around - the Valley of the Ten Peaks, whose name is slef-explanatory.

The trees gave way afgter a while and one was left in a barren wintry landscape, with rocks everywhere and snow all over the mountains, and covering small sections of the trail.

And so to the end of the wwalk, overlooking Eiffel Lake, a lovely little spot with snow on all sides of it - the lake appeared frozen (although hard to tell from that height) with snow covering patches of it. Aty this elevation one really was up in the moutains, with a cold breeze blowing off the snow. Not quite what one exopects in JKune, but a spectacaular (I've been using that word a lot recently) suight to see.

All the way back down to Moraine Lake - the whole walk had taken 4 hours. There had been a number of other peopel on the trail, but really very quiet and peaceful. Returning to Moraine Lake - oh, what a shock. Tour buses filling tyhe car park, gaggles of tourists everywhere,taking interminable nuimbers of group photos by the lake.

(THere is *quite* a difference between a tourist and a backpacker!)

I sat beside the lake, a litlte further round than the nearaest point to the car park - the fgurthest most people got - for half an hour to deliverately have a breather before doing somethine else. A lovely peacful spot, when one filtererd out the tourists.

Getting itchy feet again, it was time to set off on another walk - this time to Consolation Lakes. THis was a 6km total walk, with only a 65m eleveation gain. This walk started with a path across a boulder field, before heading into desne-ish forest, tghen emergibg onto more open ground, with a river running along beside. And so to Consolation Lakes, at the end of the river. The path ended at a view of the lake (the way ahead completley blocked by boulders) and it was a very pleasant place to sit and admire. Mountains, it goes without saying, all around, although one was nowhere near as high up. A few more people on this trail, but still pretty empty.

Back to Moraine Lake, which was still full of people. Even now, at 5pm, car after car was still arriving - people doing it and LL in one day?

After walking 18km (11.5 miles) it was time for me to go home! Back to the hostel for the customary end-of-day backpack sort out and camera download.

The cafe gere was shut tonight, so I ventured out to a Bar and Grill just down the road, Busy there, maybe with others from the hostel. Ihad a beef lasagnem, which made a nice change from chips!

(Speaking of food, the prices at the bakery here are strange $6.60 for a fairly ordainry ham and cheese sandwich, or $5 for a cornish paste *and* a ham & cheese croissant. Those are Canadian dollars if the symbol doesn't come out.)

This evening I'm diubg some washing, before I head to Jasper the day after tomorrow where there are no (laundry) facilities. The internet is broken at the hostel tonight, so this entrye will have to get delayed.

Lovely sunny evening here - the weather has been not bad all day - a mixture of sunshine and cloud, buyt not rain and a pleasant temperature for walking.

Status report

2008-06-27T03:28:47Z

The internet was broken in Lake Louise last night, so no post then. And I'm just passing through Banff (for reasons that will become clear) so thought I'd post here in case it's still brioken back at LL.

Everything is going well, and I've been doing lots of fun things! Hopefully more details later...

Day 4 - Extra

2008-06-25T02:14:44Z

Thanks to the marvels of modern technology, I present:

http://picasaweb.google.com/rymill/Canada2008/photo#5215636315765029186

(Click on the Download Photo link to see it full size.)

:)

Day 4 - Lake Louise

2008-06-25T02:09:21Z

"Mountains Gandalf, I *can* see mountains"

So, today it was time to properly start exlporing Banff National Park.

Oh, first to say that yesterday night wa smost unuausl - I had the dorm to myself! And it had an en-suite toilet as well!

Anywya, after breakfast at the hostel I popped down the road to get lunch and visit the Tourist Information Centre to get a trail map and cjeck on trail conditions. no problems on the route I had planned, which was the "Lake Agnes - Big Beehive - Plain of Six Glaciers" trail.

First, a drive of 2 miles to LL itslef. This was very full of tourists, but as the Rough Guide puts it, LL is worth putting up with all the commercial indignities. the lake is a stunning turquoise, even when the sun was in, and snow-covered mountains rise up all around it. Quite magical.

There is a short walk around it which absorbed most o fthe tourists, and I set off up my trail. Our first destination was Mirror Lake, whic hdid beautifully mirror the rather unlikely-looking huge column like mountain behind it. On and up (lots of up!) from there was Lake Agnes (where a lot of people turn back). This lake was if anything eve nmore spectacular than LL, with the mountains around it even more imminent, wuith snow coming right down to lake level. And the snow was shining and glittering in the sun. (We had sun most of the day, and it was lovely and warm. Just a bit of drizzle late in the afternoon.)

The trail continued around Lake Agnes towards Big Beehive, a lookout point. Around the far side of the lake, snow was still covering smoe sections of the trail, s owe had to stomp through this, following people's footpruints. Up and up a steep switch-back trail to the top, where the liookout was a short walk off the main path. A spectacular view that made the whole climb worthwhile, over all three of the lakes. We were high u phere too - over 2200m (LL is already pretty higf). I had my lunch here, and a chat to a couple from Annwick (which probably isn't how you spell it).

Onwards and downwards, then. You could go back to Mirror Lake and back to LL, but I was still in the mood for walking, so turned the other way, towrads the Plain of Six Glaciers. This part of the walk felt quite different, high up in barren rocky areas, with snowy mountains all around - and close, very close. A few more snowy patches to cross too. the trail ended at a tea-house, 2100 m elevation, where I had some much needed refreshment - real lemonade and delicious chocolate cake. The staff o fthe tea-house live up there for the 5 days of a shift, there's no electricity, and they only have one helicopter flight to supply them at the start of the season. After that all supplies (and people) have to be brought up on foot.

ANd so finally all the way back down to LL, most of the time on a new (to me) path, which joined up with the LL shoreline path.

The whole trip was 15km (about 10 miles), and took me from 10am untli 5pm (with a lot of stops for lunch etc!). And that involved a great deal of climbing too.

So that filled up all of today, and I had a niec dinner in the hostel (fish and chips!). There are People in my dorm tonight - Marcus from Germany, Greg from Australia and Jenny and Sarah from Saskatchewan (Canada). We've been swapping ideas fo rhikes.

A tiring walk today, then, but worth all of it for the stunning views throughout - LL looks gorgeous when seen from so far above it (and you can't see the people either!), and Lake Agnes was a lovely treat to find nestled in the mountains.

Photos taken today: 251.

Tomorrow: another walk near here.

Day 3 - Canmore

2008-06-24T02:37:20Z

Last night I was in a room with 3 others - Chad from the US (where ekse?), and Jenny and Helen frmo Edmonton, who were very pleasant. I had breakfast at the hostel, which was very handy, and was on the road by 8am. A very early start, as I needed to be somewhere byt 9am. And where might than have been? Canmore, back down Hwy 1. (Sneaky, doubling back on myself!) And what was in Canmore? The Rat's Nest Cave, which I was gong thruogh on an Adventure Tour!

As the name of the tour suggests, this is not a touristified cave, so no man-made staircases, no lighting, and no gift sjop at the edn! Instead, something much more like proper caving!

We wer emet my our guide, Eli, in Canmore. Just 2 others on the tour - a couple from the US - Eric and Colleen. After a brief introduction and the usual signing of waivers, we went to our own cars and formed a convoy to about 10km outside Cabmore. Parked there and were given our caving equpiment - helmet with light, knee-pads, a harness, a coverall and gfloves. And a bag to put it all in - for before going into the cave , we had a 30 min up-hill walk to get there ,on a loose rock path up the side of the mountain. Some gfreat views of the mountains along the way. On arrival at the cave we changed into our gear, and climbed up a slope to the cave emntrace.

The reason for the harness soon became clear - we had to attach carabiners (clips) to ropes on the cave walls. Sometimes this was to assist in going down a slope, but more to stop us falling down long drops beside the "path".

And so we set of fthruohg the cave, using a mixture of styles of movement - sliding down on our backs, crawling on jhands and knees (hance the pads) - sometimes able to walk normally.

It was pitch black in the cave, and we tried turning out out lights on a rest-stop to margvel at this.

There were 2 main "features" of ths tour. The first was a rappel down a 60ft drop. This was accomplished with the aid opf a great deal of safety equipment, with us having our own rope to let us as we went down, and the guide having a safety rope to stop us if required. And do down we went, one a a time, kicking our feet against the wall.

The second hughlight was the "Laundry Shute" - can you guess what this was? It's a very narrow tunnel, which starts by going about syraight down, then bends at a sharp 90degree angle to become horizrontal-ish. The way to get through was to wiggle, as it was tight enough to stop you if you didn't move. Not being at all claustrophobic, this was rather fun!

And so down we continued, until we reached our final point - the grotto, two lovely little pools, a long way underground. Along the way we had also been throuhg chamvers filled with stalactictes and stalagmites in some lovely formations.

We had a breather down there, before climbing back to the surface yb a duffernet and shorter route. One bit of climb took us through a passageway not much wider than the laundry chute, which had wooden suppoers, put in by miners, to hang on to. Back to the top, using our ropes for safety again, and up one fuinal vert sharp climb to the exit.

The reason for the covceralls became very apparenty - they and the gloves were covered in mud, as it was wet and muddy in a number of seciotns.

So, off with the equipment and down to our cars, whre we made our separate ways onward. We'd been in cave for 2.5 hours, along with the hour of wakling up to it and back - so it was now lunchtime.

For those of a nervous disposition, I should make clear that this was the most "extreme" of the activities i have planned - by far. But Ireally enjoyed myself - it was lovely to see a cave in its natural state. And I had no problems squeezing through the tight passages, of which there were many.

So, that was the morning. My goal for the evening was to reach the Lake Louise (LL) hostel,. but I had no particular other plans. So, lunch acquired I headed back twoads Banff. Just past the town I spotted a sign for 'Cascade Lake', and decided this was a good place for a picnic. Which it was - a charming little lake with lots of picnic tables (and mountains all around) .It was still a glorious sunny day, as it has been nearly all day.

Next ,I drove on towards LL. There are 2 ways to get there - the quick route on Hwy 1, or the more scenic Bow Valley Parkway (which is also slower as it's 40mph most o fthway to protect the wildlife). I chose the latter, of course. And I did see one wildlife with large antlers. One is told not to stop and disturb them by chasing them wit hcameras, so I didn;t. The road was really quite remarkable - mile after mile with tall trees all around, and moutnains peeking out the top.

I stopped for a 'short' walk at Johnson Canyon - a 4 mile round trip up the canyon to see 2 waterfalls. An amazing deep canyon with intense-turquoise water rushing through it. The path at tmies had to take to walkway-bridges clinging to the side of the canyon. This was a very popular wakl (a million people a year) a very well maintained. Not so many made it past the Lower Falls, ubt the Upper Halls were even more spectacular, with the water throwing up a mist all around.

Back to car and onto LL an dthe hostel. LL is much smaller than Banff town, and I'll be at this hostel for a total of 7 night, in two batches. Top qualiyt hostel, ahgain with its own cafe, where I had a spaghetti bolognese.

And now I'm exhausted after a busy day.

Stats: Narnia books finished:2. Kms travelled in total: 650.

Intersting facts about Canada:
- Car headlights ar epermantly on, dipped, whenever the enhgine is on, by law
- Your left foot and nothing to do while driving.
- It's not 'half past ten' and certainly not 'half ten', but 'half after ten'
- It's 'trail' not 'walk' - I maneged to completely confuse my roommates, who throuhg I meant something you could just walk to frmo the hostel.

And now, in an attempt to add some interactivity to this blog, a question - "What do you think was the thing I was most surprised to find difficult about driving, and sitting, on the wrong side?". Guesses in the comments!

Day 2 - Alberta Badlands

2008-06-23T02:31:34Z

(Don't miss the extra entry on Day 1, below this one)

Up bright and early this morning, feeling much referesshed and ready to start exploring!

I was on the road by 8.45, as I had a fair distance to cover today. My destination was Drumheller, to the NE of Calgary. About 1h30 to get there, going N back past the airport, and then due E, down a very straight road, basically straight all the way there.

As the Rough Guide descirbes it, the route out there is through wide rolling flat fields, and gives no indication of what is to come. But just outside Drumheller, the road suddenly drops down and cliffs rise all around. One is into the Badlands.

On the approach to the centre I stopped to get a sandwhich from Subway (which appear to be pleasingly ubiquitous), and a quick stop at the visitor centre to get a map of the trails (and observe the World's Largest Dinosaur).

I followed two driving trails. First, the Dinosaur Trail, a 50km loop to ythe NW of Drumheller. Soon out of town and into the canyons - varous stops with great views down into them. They look a little like the Grand Canyon, on a slightly smaller scale (although still huge), and formed far more recently. Extremely windy at the viewpoints, from the wind blowing up from the canyon. Another stop on the route was "The World's Smallest Church" which can "seat thousands, but only 8 at a time". Tiny little wooden structure, in the middle o fnowhere.

Halfway round the trail we had to cross a river on a chain-pulled ferry. it oculd take about 9 cars at a time, and the movement across the river was almost impercetible.

Had lunch at one o tfh viewpoints. where it had started raining, so an in-car picnic. Back to Drumheller, via the site where they perform a Passion play each year, in a natural rock amphitheatre, a most auspicious location.

I then went on the Hoodoo trail, a 15km drive to the W, to the hoodoos. These are rock pillars - formed as the pillars have sandstone caps, and the limestone all around has eroded. They're in the middle o fequally impressive rocky, hilly landsacape. The whole site is open to wakl around, which I did.

Back to Drumheller (where I bought "gas" for the car ,which is only 60p a litre!) and back towards Calgary. One final stop at what i thought was just a viewpoint over Horseshoe canyon, but in fact one could walk down into it. A spectacular location, a lanscape quite unlike anything I'd seen before, with many layers of rock, hardy plants growing everywhere, and little burrowing creatures, like small squirrels. BY this time it was a lovely hot sunny afternoon with blue sku all around, which added to the desert/canyon feel.

I could have stayed there longer to exlpore, but I had a 3 hour drive ahead of me. So, most of the way back to Calgary (including a 6km stretch of roadworks with reduced speed and lots of dust from construction) and onto State Highway 1, the Trans-Canadian higfhway. This went through the outskirts of Caljary before we left all that nasty city sutff behind. Then... suddenly, I realised that the horizon was covered in snow-capped mountains, stretching from side to side. These made for a lovely view as I drove towards them, and then into them as I arrived at my destination - Banff.

At the border to the national park I had to buy a park pass frmo a toll-booth - an annual pass worked out a best value, as it covers all th eparks I'm gong to. The hostel I'm staying at (or "alpine centre") is on the edge of Banff, right up in th moutains, which soar all around. I shall be getting a closer look at these soon! It's a big hostel, and has its own cafe, where I've had dinner. Pretty full of people too.

Some stats: total distance covered so far: 520km (most of which was today).
Number of Narnia books finished: one. (I'd forgotten how lovelyt the description of the creation of Narnia is, in the Magician's Nephew!).

As I write this, I can look out the window behind the screen, and there's the most glorious view of two mountains rising way up into the sky, with the sun lighting up their peaks. Beautiful.

Day 1 - Additional

2008-06-23T02:18:48Z

I think my imagination must have thought it was 2.30am when i wrote the last entry, as it ended uip being rather functional!

So, I forgot to mention the best part of the flight, when we flew ove rthe coast of Iceland or Greenland or somewhere, and you see ice floes in the sea, and toweing snow coverd mountains on the land. There was quite a rush towards vacacnt window seats, until the captain spolied the fun by turning on the seat-belt sign due to turbulence!

Calagry itself is (to me) a fairly uninteresting busy big city, with lots of skyscrapers and busy city streets. Very hot (or so it felt) when I arrived - somebody said it was 26/27C, Stayed warm all throuhg the evening.

Nearly all young-ish people (i.e. my sort of age) at the hostel - so like NZ, and not like the Lake District.

I survived until about 9pm (4am) before going to bed, and ha d agood long sleep.

(I'm not going to go througj and correct typos when I'm being chargfed per minute, so sorry for those!)

Day 1 - Flight

2008-06-22T01:32:17Z

Well, I've arrived!

A very early start today, up at 6am. Taxi arrived promptly and whisked me to the station, and there were no problems with the trains, going via KX, and London Victoria. Got an earlier train than I'd planned, so got to LGW at 9.45, thereby beating the rush of people arriving three hours befor ethe flight. IN fact, I basically went straight up to check-in, most unusual. My bag had to go throuhg an over-size hatch, due to having loose straps. Pretty much straight throuhg security too - they now have a separate second check where they scan your shoes. This all left me with a long wait un the departure lounge (which i got to by about 10.30!).

We were eventually told the gate (one of the furthest away ones) - but no rush as the incoming fligh thad been delayed. Began boarding at about 1.30, and we were in the air by 2.10. Very few people on the flight, so as soon as we'd finished taking off there was a mad dash to claim seats with more room. As it happened, I was in a seat in the middle aisle which I had all to myself anyway, so I was able to stretch out there.

We did quite well for food during the flight. A meal early on of chicken, potatoes (roast and parisienne), carrot, cabbage and stuffing. Not quite as grand as that makes it sound, but not bad. Also a roll, chocolate pudding and cheese and crackers. During one of the films (we were shown The Boot List and Fool's Gold, on a (not very-) big screen at the front) they brought round mini-ice cream cones, and towards the end of the flihgt we got sausages and mash! Also lots of tea/coffee/juices.

We landed just after 4pm local - and it did feel quite like 4pm, certainly more than it felt like 11pm. Through secruity quickly, bags were already there at baggage claim, then customs. All the car rental firms have offices in a buliding just offthe main airport, and I sorted out all the papaerwork with Hertz, before being shown to my car.

And so then I had to drive the thing to the hostel! the driving proved remarkably straightforward. It's an automatic, which seems *so* much easier than a manual! I kept thinking to myself "on the right, on the right" which seemed to do the trick. Fortuntaely there were often other cars to follow. Turning left is a little odd, having to go past the line of waiting cars in the road you're going into.

Anyway, there was much relief when I spied the standard youth-hostel green-triangle sign, as it was tricky navigating around the busy city streets. (Should be a lot easier when I'm more out in the wilds!) Parked a little further down the road, as it's free at weekends. Checked in - assigned a bed nyumber in the room! Swipe card access to rooms. Capacity for 8 in the room, but doesn't seem full.

After all the odd meals I wasn't tat hungry, so went to a corner shop to get a sandwich and some breakfats supplies. Most of the hostels I'll be in have cafes, which will be much more conveient. I'm now sitting in the upstais lounge, trying to work out what time I think it is!

The holiday starts properly tomorrow, with a driving tour around the Alberta Badlands.

Canada: T-2 days

2008-06-19T22:09:21Z

I'm off to Canada on Saturday, for two weeks, and you can follow my progress right here. I'll be aiming to post most days, but some of the places I'm going are a little out in the wilds, so may not quite have the internet yet.

I'll be doing a little circuit around the Canadian Rockies - flying into and out of Calgary, and visiting lots of national parks: Banff, Jasper, Yoho, Waterton Lakes. Lots of walking in store, and a few other activities planned. All to be revealed in due course!

I should be checking email quite regularly, so do drop me a line so that I don't feel too cut off from everybody :)

Until next time, which should be from Canada...

Canada!

2007-10-29T19:27:07Z

I've just booked the flights for my summer 2008 holiday, for which I am going to... Canada!

21 Jun 08 - 11:00 - 027 - Zoom Airlines Inc - London Gatwick South - Calgary Main - Sat - 13:15

05 Jul 08 - 17:00 - 028 - Zoom Airlines Inc - Calgary Main - London Gatwick South - Sun - 09:00

So I'll be there for two weeks, doing a loop around the Alberta / eastern British Columbia area, going to lots of national parks - Banff, Jasper, Glacier...

Woo!

Reflections

2007-10-04T18:49:58Z

So, I promised some reflections on my trip; for those of you still reading, here they are :)

The Lake District

The place itself, first - an amazing part of the country. I knew Cambridge was flat, but so is most of the rest of the country compared to the Lakes. Which ever way you go it's up or down (or usually a lot of one followed by a lot of the other). This of course makes it a perfect place for lots of walks, as the views you get from even short climbs are excellent.

One thing that struck me is how under-commercialised everything is. Other than little concentrations of gift-shops at Windermere and Grasmere, nearly everywhere else is still remarkably unspoilt. Take Buttermere - it contains two pub/hotels, one cafe, and a National Trust car park. Nothing else. Coniston Water, which I expected to be full of Swallows and Amazons gift shops everywhere had even less! The National Trust is doing a good job...

Another thing that I felt on several occasions was the lovely sense of space. A strange concept perhaps, but it was most noticeable on my walk up the Old Man, about half way up, around Low Tarn. I think it was the thought that there were these huge areas between the fells which simply couldn't be seen from down below, like there was a different, secret world hidden away up the mountain, which was only accessible to those who had actually walked up there. There was a similar feeling at some of the lakes, such as Buttermere - surrounded on all side by high fells climbing up, and yet this expanse of water: nothing there but a footpath around the lake - no purpose to the place, just a place to be.

The Hostels

I stayed on a total of seven YHA hostels and they were all, without exception, lovely places. All had a very different character to them, based on either the house (which often felt as though it had just been turned into a hostel, with a lot of the old house still poking through), or the location. All of them had the same setup, of course, with the ingenious YHA sheet sleeping bags, the meals, check-in arrangements, and the like; but they all still managed to do everything differently as well, even with things like meals - whether the evening meal was self-service or brought out to you; what they put in the picnic bags.

The hostels were in pretty amazing locations too - Helvellyn being the obvious example, miles from anywhere, 1000ft up a a mountain. But Elterwater was right out in the wilds too; Ambleside had an amazing lake-front location; Keswick was right in the middle of the town. Some of the places could perhaps have done with a little refurbishment, but in a sense that gave a sense of charm as well - that you weren't staying in a luxury hotel, but in a real place.

The meals at all the hostels were also of a high standard. I had three meals a day from hostels, every day of my stay other than one evening. Breakfasts were always a good mixture of things; it was always exciting opening up the packed lunch to see what was in your picnic today - and lots of things too, with 7 or 8 items; and dinners were tasty, and cheap too, with a two or three course meal for around 8 or 9 pounds. It amazed me really how few people took advantage of these dinners, which made the times when there were more people there better. Quite a lot dined at Elterwater, there probably not being many other options in the village; and clearly at Helvellyn there wasn't really much choice! But it was good to sit down to dinner with people at Helvellyn, with quite a sense of community due to the isolation.

I was struck too by how the hostel staff, particularly in the smaller hostels, do all the various jobs, rather than just one. So at Coniston the married couple in charge would man reception, cook all the meals, and do the cleaning. In fact quite often if one went to reception during a meal-time and rang the bell, somebody would pop out of the kitchen, still wearing an apron, to serve you.

The People

One of the advantages of travelling on your own is that you get to meet a lot of new people, rather than only talking to the people you're with. Although there was a huge variety of ages at the hostels (which, incidentally, rather surprised me - in New Zealand the hostels were mostly full of people my age or younger, whereas here there were far more families and retired men, and hardly anybody of my age) one felt that we were all of a similar type: keen on walking and being outdoors, clearly, but also willing to stay in hostels rather than expensive hotels, open to talking to new people, considerate of others (very noticeable, in fact); and, it has to be said, quite a mix of eccentrics as well!

But certainly everybody was very friendly - not just in the hostels, but when out walking too. One wouldn't dream of saying Hello to a stranger in the street in Cambridge, but on all of the walks I did, it would be most unusual for people not to be greeting each other. (And it wasn't just people replying to me, as if I was a little slow in saying Hello, probably due to being a bit out of breath, they soon got in there first!)

All sorts of people with interesting stories to tell at the hostels over dinner, or in the evening in the lounge. An Australian couple half-way through a 15 week tour around the UK. A man in his 70s who has stayed at 500 youth hostels around the world, and 150 in the UK. Two young men doing the coast-to-coast cycle ride. A group of fell-runners who were going to run up Helvellyn. Various shy people who really opened up when I asked them what walk they'd done that day. A man who'd been to the Lakes as a boy and was now bringing his grandson here. And many more!

I doubt you wouldn't get that in a hotel - one would be in your own room, and they'd all be in theirs, and you'd never meet them.

The Weather

Everybody told me that it rains a lot in the Lake District, and perhaps it does, but I think I was actually rather lucky. Only one day got completely washed out by the rain (in Elterwater), and my trip around Coniston Water would have been nicer if it hadn't been raining. But other than those days I managed to avoid the rain remarkably well. Yes, it was still grey and cloudy most of the time, with very few days of sunshine, but that was sort of what I was expecting. And I doubt I'd have made it up the Old Man in 30C summer heat!

Getting Around

The YHA shuttle bus proved to be a very useful service. I was often the only person on it, making it effectively a taxi from hostel door to hostel door! But even when I went off that route, onto ordinary buses, things were still fine. I can't imagine there are any national parks in other countries with quite such an extensive bus network! (Or many places with buses that go up 1500ft mountain passes!)

I did occasionally miss having a car like I did in New Zealand - really only because wherever I wanted to go, I had to walk there. So, for example, Aira Force. A nice place to visit, but it took an hour to walk there, and an hour back as well. A nice walk, so not a problem, but it would have been nice just to jump in a car to go and visit somewhere quickly.

However, not having a car meant I got to do things in the proper way - I got to climb up from Keswick to the stone circle, as its original inhabitants would have done; I had to climb my way up to Helvellyn hostel, adding to the sense of it being a really out of the way place, rather than just driving up to it.

It also meant that I was basically out of doors all day. I would normally leave the hostel for the day around 9.30 or 10, and not normally get back until between 4 and 6. And between those times I was self-sufficient, with my picnic, not needing to find cafes to stop in. So I could just be outside, and walk, and sit, and watch, and climb. This gave a nice slow pace to each day - I wasn't having to hurry off somewhere, and I could just sit and stare (I had rather thought that was a line by Wordsworth, but it turns out not to be - oops!). It did make me rather dependent on the weather, as one couldn't have a picnic in the rain, but fortunately I was lucky with that.

I was very glad on numerous occasions that I had bought my GPS device! It wasn't that I really got lost, but it was just so useful to be able to look at the map, and actually know where you were on it, and confirm that you were on the path you thought. In fact, I found it rather easier to navigate using this and the map than from the walk booklet directions (with talk of tops of fields and gates and so on); just following the footpath route on the map, and using the direction-compass on the GPS to make sure I was heading the right way.

Reading Material

I couldn't really think of a good heading for this section! But I just wanted to mention that I was re-reading The Lord of the Rings during the trip, getting through one and a half books' worth. This may explain why certain LOTR-ish phrases tended to creep into my blog posts (such as much mention of being "out in the wilds")! But it did seem a rather appropriate choice, reading about the long walks of the Fellowship through forests and the like, when I had been doing the same thing during the day :)

Favourites

Favourite lake (and low-level walk): Buttermere, as I mentioned at the time. Just something about the light there, and the calm.

Favourite climb: I think probably Wansfell Pike, the one that I hadn't decided to do until the day before! And it wins for the remarkable views from the top, down to Windermere, to the sea, and to the whole surrounding area - and for being a good steep climb, yet without the sense of are-my-legs-actually-going-to-carry-me-to-the-top!

Favourite hostel: A difficult one, as they were all good in different ways, but I'm going to go for Helvellyn, for the evenings when I walked out of the hostel, at about 10pm, and just walked a short distance away into the black, and could look at the Mountains rearing up all around in the dark, and the stream rushing invisibly past, and could then turn and see the lights of the hostel and the smell of wood-smoke welcoming you back in out of the black.

Greatest sense of achievement: getting to the top of the Old Man - a climb that did indeed have the aforementioned attribute that Wansfell Pike didn't!

And I think that brings this rather long reflection to an end. I took just over 1200 photos while I was there, which will take me quite a while to sort through, but I look forward to showing some of them to you soon. A quick look shows that the ones that I thought might be rather good indeed are :)

As you'll have gathered if you've made it through all these blog posts, I really enjoyed my trip. It was amazing how quickly I got into the holiday routine, when one moved hostel in the morning, spent the entire day outside, and then came back for a tasty hostel meal and to plan the route for tomorrow. Even after only a few days I felt quite at home there, completely absorbed into the place, and at one with my surroundings. And that feeling is already fading, as I get back into my usual Cambridge routine. It won't be long before I seek for that feeling again, and busy myself once more with the planning of trips out to the wilds...

Journey

2007-10-01T18:17:17Z

Today was my journey home, which means that this entry at least should have slightly fewer typos than normal, as I'm now at my own computer, with no timer ticking in the corner of the screen!

When I woke up this morning (at Ambleside), it was a lovely bright sunny morning, with lots of blue sky. I went out before breakfast to have a look at Windermere in the morning light, and there were lovely patches of mist rising around the shores, which I tried to photograph, not sure how successfully. Cold out though!

Nice buffet breakfast, and then I collected my packed lunch. I'd only been expecting a sandwich and crisps, given the reduced price I'd paid, but when I opened it up I found 7 items as usual - but with a pain au chocolat rather than a sausage roll, and a chocolate bar rather than a cereal bar. Otherwise as normal! I rather expected that they'd try to whip something up - no doubt the pain au chocolat was from breakfast :)

I caught the YHA shuttle bus at 10.05, taking me straight to the station. (One other passenger on board who, I gathered, had left her rucksack behind at a hostel in Glasgow, and was trying to sort out whether they could post it down to her, but was rather expecting that she was going to have to go up and get it.)

Train at 10.37, which took me to Oxenholme (and was going on to Manchester Airport). Only a few minutes wait there and I hopped on a train that was going from Edinburgh to Bournemouth (a long journey!) but was also handily stopping at Crewe. About half an hour wait for a train to Nuneaton (going onto Euston). And then about 10 minutes wait there for a service to Stansted Airport, which called in at Cambridge.

I was travelling about an hour earlier than my booked seats, but I didn't have many problems. The second train was the busiest, with lots of reserved seats, but I found some that weren't in fact in use, and nobody came to claim them for the journey. The last train was also very busy, as it only had two coaches, but there didn't seem to be any reservations, and I'd got on it before most people so I got a seat :)

At Cambridge station I caught the usual two buses to get me back here, and I was here at exactly 5pm - seven hours from hostel door to front door - a journey of 254 miles by road, according to Google.

No problems with my large luggage on any of the trains or buses, although for part of the second journey I had to have it between my feet, not leaving much room for those! And not much need to carry it - more time spent getting it on my back and off again!

As I mentioned it was a lovely day when I woke up, and it still was when I left Windermere on the train - it was only as a I journeyed South that it became cloudy and started to rain. It was much better up North!

Well, that's it for the journey; I might add another post in a day or two with some more general reflections on the trip.

Ambleside

2007-09-30T19:00:48Z

Last night something happened in a hostel that never has before - I was the only person in the room! I also went out for a nice stroll at about 10pm, to see how dark it was - very dark! Lovely night with the moon shining through and lighting up the clouds. Lovely to see the fells and the trees in the dark just lit by the moon, and the homely lights of the hostel shining out into the blackness. Strong smell of wood-smoke from the warden's lodge. So rare you get the chance to see places like this at night-time, and this just by stepping outside the door!

Onto today, and it started with breakfast at Helvellyn. Checked out just after 9, and headed down into the village. Can't remember how long it took, but the bag was preety heavy by the end!

Caught the 507 Kirkstone Rambler bus at 10.10. Only 2 or 3 other passengers. A very exciting route over the Kirkstone Pass (1500ft up) - not so much a Pass as just straight over the top! This took me to Windermere station, from where I caught a 555 to Waterhead, right by the hostel.

Got here aruond 11.30, and was about to leave by luggage in the storeroom when I was told I could actually checkin to my room (another first - an ensuite!). Room is on the first floor again, but at the other (left) end - not nearly such a good view, just over the backs of houses.

Set off around 12 for my walk. And I felt in the mood for a climb! I did a lovely circuit, started by climbing up to Stock Ghyll Force (waterfall), which was good to see. Then along up the path, before turning onto a climb up Wansfell Pike. A long steep climb later and I was at the top - 1600ft up! Lovely day for it - dry, high cloud, some sunshine and no wind. Which meant that I could stay at the summit for my picnic. During the climbthere were great views out over Ambleside and its fells, but then as one got to the top the view suddenly hit you - a spectacular panorama over Windermere lake, and right down to the Sea. Amazing views in all directions from the top - well worth the climb!

After the picnic I then continued on around, following the route from the booklet (I'd only really thought of doint this wakl yesterday, seeing Wansfell PIke in the Rought Guide as "for those with lofty ambitions" and then finding this circular wakl in the booklet). The ruote went down and SE, leading to a walled track called "Nanny Lane". This came down to Troutbeck village, which I passed through, and out of on Robin Lane (Hood or Red-Breast?). Continued on to Jenkin's Crag, a viewpoint over Windermere, before I finally headed down through a wood to get back to the road just by the hostel. A very fine walk, which I spread out to take 4.5 hours (distance 7 miles). Then set on a bench by the lake admiting the view (later a great sunset over it too).

Hostel for dinner - no set evening meal tonight, but the bar was serving food, so mainly just a semantic difference, other than the food being prepared after you'd ordered it, rather than before. Fish and chips. Hardly anybody there - bt the hostel feels pretty empty too - Sundays aren't popualr nights I suppose.

Booked a lunch for tomorrow, but was then hailed over the hostel tannoy to come back to reception, & they've run out of most of their supplies, but could do a sandwich and crips - so got a partial refund. Also booked up for the YHA shuttle bus for the trip back to the station tomorrow - leaving at 10.05.

A good last day then. Lovely weather for the walk, and good to end with aonother climb - seemed a good way to make the most of the sun too. Pretty hard slog getting up there, but the view more than made up for it, even more so because of its sudden appaerance.

Tomorrow - lots of trains and buses.

Ullswater

2007-09-29T15:58:16Z

Good night's sleep last night, as neither of the people in my room snored - for the first time on this trip! (Snoring doesn't bother me that much, but it is nice when it's not there.) Breakfast as usual, a mixture of continental and English available.

Set off down the mountain to get back to Ullswater, as the first thing I had planned was a trip around the lake. NIce easy walk down :) I ended up catching the 10.45 boat, on a 2 hour trip around the lake. The lake is 7.5 miles long, and we saw all of it, calling at Howtown halfway along, and Pooley Bridge at the far (east) end. A little bit chilly outside on the boat, but I stayed out most of the time, before retreating inside to warm up towards the end.

Rather grey and cloudy here today, but only a few spots of drizzle at one point. I actually found that the lake looked prettier when I was walking around it later than it did from the boat - not sure why!

Once the boat got back I had my picnic by the shore, then set off for my next excursion - which was to Aira Force (waterfall). The walk to get there took about an hour, firstly along a permitted path, and then just along the road (surely a place crying out for a footpath - a very popular spot, and a fairly busy road - an A road at that!). Once there, I had about an hour's walk around, going up one side of the river to Aira Force itself, before crossing it twice over bridges, and then continuing up the east bank, before crossing on a third bridge just by High Force. (Well, that's where HIgh FOrce was supposed to be, but there seemed to be a much more impressive bit of waterfall a little higher up, and several other waterfalls along the river anyway, so I'm not sure which one exactlyt was named what!) Aira Force itslef was impressive - large quantites of water gushing out of gap in the rock, and then down a long fall. Lots of tourists there who had proabbly all driven there! (ALthough for all the car park was almost full, I don't know where that many p[eople had disappeared to - the tea room, I expect!).

ANother hour walking back, and I'm now back in Glenridding, and found an internet cafe to post this and yesterday's blog. No internet access up Helvellyn, as expected - and no mobile reception either up there, or indeed down here in the village!

Tomorrow I'll be catching the bus back to Ambleside, and doing a bit of a walk and climb there. And on Monday I'll be coming home!